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I've had my 50" TV on a heavy articulated mount on the wall for 3 months. the other day i angled it to watch from the dining table like always and the top two 1/4" toggle bolts ripped out of the wall. Then the lower 2. No damage to the TV, just my wrists.

The cheapest drywall I have ever seen. The TV was not mounted into studs( I know I know...but it hung for a year in my last place not in studs either...).

Now, because I have holes in which to look into, I can see the studs. They are metal, about an inch and a half wide and I have drilled 2 new holes in them. BUT, the studs are 23 inches apart, not 16 as usual and so the mount isn't wide enough to ensure all 4 holes can be drilled through metal studs.

The problem now is that the 2 holes on the left side are drilled above the spots where the drywall was ripped out with a chunk missing(now patched)from each hole. What kind of support can I expect from these 2 holes? The new holes are about 5 inches up from the ripped out holes.The guy at Lowes says that 90% of the weight will be supported by the 2 studs in the metal studs. TRUE? So can I assume that the 2 holes on the left side won't tear out like their predecessors did?

My only other option would be to drill through the other side into the bedroom and place a piece of plywood there hoping that that would suffice. But I really don't want to do this. Should I risk mounting assuming that two toggles in a metal stud will hold?

Goman
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    possible duplicate of [Can metal studs support a 64" plasma TV on a swiveling mount?](http://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/48118/can-metal-studs-support-a-64-plasma-tv-on-a-swiveling-mount) – longneck Dec 10 '14 at 21:27

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Personally, I'd lean toward installing something rigid (wood/plywood/metal) that bridges between the studs and installing the TV on that, so the weight is going to the studs on both sides. Depending on your skill level and what you're placing around it, that could be a simple pair of one-bys painted to match the wall, or a nicely finished piece of plywood with picture-frame trim around the outside edge, or a fancy cabinet with tambour doors or...

keshlam
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    Or rip out the area between the studs and insert wood behind the drywall before patching again; in an efficient world, do that before patching the first time, as it would then add virtually no work. In any case, it can be invisible. – Ecnerwal Dec 11 '14 at 00:41
  • Ditto @Ecnerwal, It can be added by slotting the drywall about 6 inches high and inserting the larger plywood through the slot. Since the drywall needs repaired anyway.... – Jack Dec 11 '14 at 03:53
  • Well, that would be the answer IF I owned the house and not renting. Ripping out the drywall to add studs is way not happening. I am trying to decide if two toggles mounted in the metal stud will hold the TV coupled with the two on the left in just the drywall. If not, I would drill straight through and use a piece of plywood for support. – Goman Dec 11 '14 at 05:52
  • ...you already ripped out drywall with the TV mount. And we are nut suggesting adding a stud. – Ecnerwal Dec 11 '14 at 15:47
  • My suggestion is four screws into studs, rather than two and two anchors in plaster... and does not require "drilling straight through". You might get by with the latter, counting on the screws in the stud to take most of the torque... but if that's the way you want to go, I think you might do better with two screws in the stud CENTERED on the display, via a board or other support behind it. – keshlam Dec 11 '14 at 16:32
  • By behind it, do you mean through to the bedroom wall with a piece of plywood? The holes that ripped out were 2finger-sized. They are now patched. My TV is 60 lbs and the bracket about 20. The toggles are rated at 265 lbs each. If I center the mount over the metal stud, then the TV will hang out into the doorway to the bedroom. Really it's a second rate constructed wall. Think I will try the 2 in stud 2 in the wall tactic.Thanks for the help Keshlam, Jack and Ecnerwal. – Goman Dec 11 '14 at 17:14
  • No, I mean: Mount a piece of wood to the surface of the wall, supporting it properly with screws driven through it into one or two studs, and mount the display to that. Nothing needs to go through the wall. – keshlam Dec 11 '14 at 17:23
  • 80 pounds... I don't like putting torque on the stud, but the two-and-two will probably work. – keshlam Dec 11 '14 at 17:24
  • So, I have a few 2" x 10" by 36" laying around. You suggest mounting one to the front wall, having 4 toggles into the metal studs and then what, using a heavy duty wood screw to mount the bracket to the wood, right? – Goman Dec 11 '14 at 18:44
  • I suspect you actually have a 1x10, since 2x10 is much less common... but, yeah, that's what I was proposing. You could slap some finish on it first to make it prettier, if it will be visible behind the screen -- or simply paint it black to match the (presumed) color of the case and mount, or paint it to match the wall (which might be the best solution). – keshlam Dec 11 '14 at 20:17
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    Actually it is 1 1/2 x 10 but they are called 2 by tens. I really like this idea and will do it. Although adding another 10 lbs for the wood is on my mind too. I figure four toggles into metal studs should do the trick. Thanx for your clarification keshlam. – Goman Dec 11 '14 at 20:23
  • I know you are renting, but I would personally open up the wall, and install wood studs and blocking inside of the wall cavity. Metal studs are not strong enough for this kind of application. It may hold for a short time, but it will most likely fail in the future, especially if you move the TV around. – Jason Hutchinson Dec 12 '14 at 16:53
  • Websearching "metal studs tv wall mount" (which I had assumed the OP had done before asking) turns up several videos/articles on the topic. – keshlam Dec 12 '14 at 17:44
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Success. I used a 2 x 10 long enough to ensure mounting to the two metal studs. I drilled the 4 half-inch holes in the wood for the toggle bolts (rated at 265 lbs each) to go through. Measure twice... For mounting the articulating bracket I drilled the 4 holes and countersunk the backside to cover the bolt heads using a 1" spade bit for that side which touches the wall. I used double washers here. So, it fits smoothly and won't leave imprints in the wall. Then, the latest dilemma occurred to me. Because of the thickness of the wood, the screws that came with the toggles wouldn't be long enough, so I had to drop everything and go back to the store for some 5" 1/4 20's to be able to slip through the wood and have enough turns to ensure the toggles were actually secure. Washers on the front side too. The sucker is on solid now. Thanks for the idea and all the help.

Goman
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