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What I need: A secure way to connect a garden hose to a water pump using lead free adapters and/or connections. The pump output is 1/2" MNPT and is positioned approximately 3"-4" from the box frame. Pump can be moved horizontally but only max 1" in either direction. Technically speaking I could attach a 1/2" x 3/4" FIP x MHT Brass Flanged Threaded Sillcock Valve directly to the pump output and call it done. However that's not going to cut it for me. Using any sillcock valve or quarter-turn female hose bib is undesirable because of the flow restrictions imposed by the internal workings. A flange or mountable adapter is necessary to keep everything secure and wobble free. The daily movement of the heavy garden hose must be considered, hence the flange to mount such an adapter. This setup must be able to withstand at least 15 PSI.

What I tried: The pump manufacturer supplies a 1/2" Straight Barbed Fitting. I would attach a vinyl tube to the barb with a stainless hose clamp. The vinyl tube would feed through and hang approximately 3" outside of the box output. I attached a male hose mender to it with a stainless hose clamp. This did work, but over time the barbed fitting would deform from the pressure of the clamp and the male hose mender would not be stationary and it had to withstand the daily movements of the garden hose. This would transfer some stress to the pump's output threads. I don't have pictures of this setup. I did read this post but it doesn't help in my situation.

What I'm thinking: Using a straight ~2" to ~3" pipe (copper or PVC), one end of the straight pipe gets coupled to the pump output and the *other end gets connected to a termination fitting. (*Still trying to figure out this connection) The termination fitting is mounted on the outside of the box. I could then use a MNPT to MHT fitting to create the male garden hose output I need. The termination plate is held in place by four screws and keeps the piping straight and stresses off the plastic pump output. I can enlarge the hole for the box output to allow for any fittings necessary.

Other ideas: There is a rare adapter known as a Special Drop Adapter that is very close to what I am after. Pros - flanged for secure mounting. Cons - not lead free, requires sweating (trying to keep everything a threaded connection), wrong size, needs male thread output.

Am I overthinking this setup and completely missing a simple or common solution? Or are my needs really so unique that it requires some not-so-common adapters and jerry-rigging? I am open to any and all suggestions, improvements, tips, etcetera.

Some photos to help describe my situation. Exterior Box Output

Interior Box With Pump Output

Interior and Exterior Output

giuseppe
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    Not all ball valves restrict when fully open. The ones which don't cost more, admittedly, and are bulkier. But I've got examples on hand of ones where the hole through the ball is of the same diameter as the pipe; all that takes is using a larger ball and a housing big enough to contain it. – keshlam May 25 '23 at 22:45
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    What is that cabinet/box made out of? From the picture it looks like pressed wood that does not like to get wet. – crip659 May 25 '23 at 23:05
  • I'd say your idea should work. – gnicko May 26 '23 at 01:41
  • @crip659 I had a feeling someone would ask about that. I had some scrap MDF laying around. It’s heavily stained with deck sealant. The MDF was free and it’s uniform in shape. Easy to work with. It’s not the best but it was free. Over a year sitting outside in the rust belt and no issues. – giuseppe May 26 '23 at 02:04
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    1. The linked sillcock valve is obviously not a ball valve. It’s multi-turn so it’s washer based. An actual quarter-turn ball valve could provide much less restricted flow. 2. Why are lead-free fittings so important upstream of a garden hose? Garden hoses are generally very explicitly not fit for drinking water. – nobody May 26 '23 at 02:47
  • Very intense effort to get the correct adapter for this pump, but do you realize that a little water dripping or leaked from anywhere will turn the particle board box into mush........just saying. – RMDman May 26 '23 at 11:08
  • @RMDman Yes I am well aware of that. The MDF was free. It has heavy coats of waterproofing stain. 13 months in the northeastern elements and no complaints. I've seen what unprotected particle boards can do. They act like a sponge. – giuseppe May 26 '23 at 15:12
  • Why do you need a valve? I'm thinking when the pump is off, the water stops...right? – gnicko May 26 '23 at 23:23
  • @gnicko valve isn't really necessary. I mentioned sillcock valve because the one I have on-hand is 1/2" FPT x 3/4" MHT. The correct dimensions but the flow is restricted by the gasket. When the pump is off, water can still flow through. Although at a very minimal rate. The water supply is above the level of the pump. At the end of the garden hose is a pistol grip nozzle. Pump starts when pressure drops. Pump stops when pressure reaches the set PSI. – giuseppe May 27 '23 at 05:58

1 Answers1

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Get a threaded female to female 1/2 to 3/4 reducing fitting

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Then a 3/4" x ??" nipple to go between that and the wall termination fitting. enter image description here

Then install a male 3/4" FNTP to hose adapter after the termination fitting.

male 3/4" FNTP to HT Adapter

gnicko
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