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I'd like to buy a new refrigerator, one that's considered standard width of 35.75 inches. The space where my old refrigerator is to small by about an inch. I'd like to take down the partial wall that sits next to the refrigerator, but want to make sure it's not load bearing. It can be seen in the picture attached.

I know the wall that the partial wall attaches to is load bearing as it runs down the center of my house, and the joist in the basement run perpendicular to the center wall. The partial wall runs parallel to the joist.

My basement is below it, it's a completely open concept basement. The joists in the basement run parallel to that partial wall. That center wall in the picture is the load bearing wall, and is supported in the basement with a beam and columns. Above is a bedroom.

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isherwood
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    I would be more concern how that floor will look after. Most finish floors are put down after the walls are up, so those pieces are probably cut to just the edge of that wall. – crip659 Apr 14 '23 at 14:16
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    What's below, what's above? As for the floor, you patch it - not a big deal. – Ecnerwal Apr 14 '23 at 14:18
  • I have more of the flooring, I already figured I would have to redo a small portion of it. The flooring will actually be changed out at some point this year. We don't care for it, nails are always popping up, and our dog has done some damage to it. It doesn't look this pretty anymore haha. this picture was from 6 years ago when we bought it. – Kristenl2784 Apr 14 '23 at 14:18
  • Does this answer your question? [Are there ways to determine if a wall is load bearing?](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/4/are-there-ways-to-determine-if-a-wall-is-load-bearing) – isherwood Apr 14 '23 at 14:27
  • Yes, Cape Cod. Also, the partial wall is not very thick, it was made with 2x4s, I've read typical load bearing walls are greater than 6 inches. Not sure if this is always true. – Kristenl2784 Apr 14 '23 at 14:31
  • 2x4 stud walls can be load bearing. Our sturdy 50-year-old 2000 sq ft 1-story tract house has 2x4s on 24 inch centers for all load bearing walls. We have a couple of short non-load-bearing walls larger than 2x4 to accomodate plumbing vents and dryer vent. A custom home builder told me that most stud construction in the US is way over strength. The market expects it. One new house near us was built with 2x6 exterior walls on 16" centers. – Jim Stewart Apr 14 '23 at 15:37
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    Interior bearing walls are almost _always_ 2x4 unless more depth is needed for plumbing, etc. That's not an indicator. – isherwood Apr 14 '23 at 16:03
  • If you find electrical runs in that wall, you’ll have a bit more work than expected. But assuming you’re satisfied that the wall isn’t load bearing, it would be less work to demo the fridge side of the drywall and cut back the studs, while adding a couple more studs on the flat. Fixing the floor would be trivial. The cabinets and ceiling would be a tiny bit tricky to manage, but do-able. – Aloysius Defenestrate Apr 15 '23 at 12:36

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If there's no support (beam or column) holding it up from below, and nothing coming down onto it from above, it's not load-bearing.

Ecnerwal
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