6

As you can see in the picture there is about a 3/8” offset from my beam to the studs. I would just shim it to cover that gap but the doors are framed for 1/2 drywall and the other side of this wall is finished. Not sure what to do to have a clean wall here. I don’t really want to have a jut out to accommodate the beam.

Any suggestions?

enter image description here

isherwood
  • 119,766
  • 7
  • 148
  • 349
Caleb S
  • 61
  • 2

2 Answers2

9

You really just have two choices here. The first is to frame some wood structure over the steel beam that you can then attach drywall to. This does lead to a "jut out" as you called it and it was clear that you did not like this approach but it may overall be easier than the other alternative.

The second approach is to add shim strips to all the studs to bring their surface out enough that drywall can then be mounted straight up to the ceiling. You will still have to do something with some framing in and around the steel beam so that that upper end of the drywall has something to fasten to. It is possible that could just be a strip nailed across the bottoms of the overhead floor joists. With regard to the door it is not uncommon practice to have to install wood strips to this side of the door frame so that the jamb extends out to the surface of the drywall. These are often called "jamb extensions" and quite commonly are custom made to the specifics of the job at hand by ripping strips off a nice pine board using a table saw.

Michael Karas
  • 63,732
  • 7
  • 60
  • 141
  • 6
    The third is to leave the beam exposed, possibly painted. The fourth is to install a drop ceiling at a level below the beam to hide it and all the other under-joust complexities. – keshlam Apr 06 '23 at 05:33
  • 1
    If you go with the third option and leave the beam exposed, it's worth looking into a tear-away bead for the drywall. Then you can drywall & mud right up to the bottom of the beam, and the final transition will have a clean, solid edge. (And you can caulk the tiny remaining gap if you want.) – GManNickG Apr 06 '23 at 18:51
  • I want to say the fifth is to leave the beam exposed by the drywall but then cover it with something else but idk building codes – user253751 Apr 06 '23 at 20:18
  • under-joust complexities can be quite difficult to solve, @keshlam! Funny typos FTW. :D – FreeMan Apr 07 '23 at 14:49
  • Just call me Don Quixote... – keshlam Apr 07 '23 at 17:15
0

The overall easiest "workaround" is to add firring strips to all the wall studs and top plate. This adds 3/4" and allows the drywall to clear the edge of the beam. A few wads of construction adhesive or even drywall compound between the beam and drywall for a little support and all you have to worry about is screwing into the top plate. ( no other anchoring needed on to the beam) Problem 1 solved.

You will have your drywall 1/4 inch proud of the door jamb. Then you need to make the Jamb extenders as suggested by Michael Karas. Problem 2 solved.

Install your door casing and finish to your preference. Enjoy an adult beverage of your choice.

Done

RMDman
  • 12,303
  • 2
  • 11
  • 35