When I turn on my outdoor faucet, water sprays out of the handle. I try to take off the screw so that I can replace the rubber washer, but its really rusty and stuck. It was installed in 1979. Anyway I want to replace the whole thing with a new one. I don't know what brand this is and search the hardware stores and no one could find it. So hopefully someone on here can find it for me? Or maybe give a solution on how to get the rusty screw out without stripping it?
-
1The price for that part will probably be close to the price of a whole faucet. – crip659 Nov 06 '22 at 19:08
-
Which screw are you trying to remove, the one for the orange handle or the one at the bottom of the valve stem holding the black washer in place? – JACK Nov 06 '22 at 19:16
-
1What's your question? You mention replacement parts, but then you say you want to replace the whole thing. – isherwood Nov 10 '22 at 15:28
3 Answers
The washer and the screw holding it on are standard parts that can be bought at almost any home store. Since the washer is shot anyway, simply cut it away with a utility knife.
Then spray some WD40 or another penetrating lubricant onto the base of the screw. After a few minutes you should be able to remove it. If the slot in the head of the screw strips you should be able to turn it by gripping the sides of the screw head with a pair of pliers or visegrips.
The answers here recommending repacking the stem are correct. You will need to replace the packing around the cartridge stem in order to keep water from leaking out around the stem. You should replace the rubber washer at the same time.
There shouldn't be a need to replace the faucet.
- 8,652
- 3
- 12
- 34
"Water sprays out the handle" indicates a need to repack the valve stem, not replace the washer.
If the washer was bad, you wouldn't be able to turn it on, because it would never turn all the way off. If it turns off, and then sprays water at you when you turn it on, that's definitely valve stem packing, not washer.
Applying moderate heat, (given the rubber parts) and Liquid Wrench, PB-Blaster, or Kroil (NOT WD-40 which is not a penetrating oil) and then using a pair of locking pliers to grab the screw head is generally the best bet - or buy a whole new part at a plumbing supply (or well-stocked/can order hardware store, not a big box.)
- 174,759
- 9
- 212
- 440
The gasket on the end with the screw, is an internal seal that regulates flow between places where water is normal and expected. When it fails, water follows the normal path, not when you want it to.
You might as well replace it since you're in there, but it's not the one you're asking about.
A leak around the handle, I call that an "external leak" as water is going where it should not. That is the packing gland on the shaft of that valve. You need to remove the handle from the valve in order to get to that packing gland. But any competent old-world hardware store of the sort that's been there for 50 years, ought to be able to supply that for you quite easily.
When you re-install the valve, put the handle back on it and crank the handle down to screw it into the internal valve threads. Run the outer nut down "finger tight" or a little more. Don't go bananas; this is how you adjust the packing nut.
Then turn the water on and crack the valve. Water should now flow normally. You may also get water out of the packing nut; if so keep tightening it until you don't. Lastly plug up the line however you normally do that, so the packing nut sees full water pressure. If it leaks now, then relieve the pressure and tighten it down a bit more and try again. Don't over-tighten.
You can replace the whole valve if you really want to, but that will involve unsoldering it from the pipe inside your house that it's attached to. And a new one is not likely to be higher quality.
These old valves are designed to be repairable; I'd make full use of that since it's less work.
- 276,940
- 24
- 257
- 671


