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I have a flat top electric stove/oven, all heating range elements don't get hot anymore, no heat at all, they seem to have stopped working simultaneously, oven still turns on, what could be the issue? GE jbs55w0j1ww in this case. No recent house wiring changes.

rogerdpack
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  • The edit is a good start. What _model_ is the range? Do they not work at all, or do they not go all the way to high, or something else? Every detail you can think of, even if you don't think it's terribly important. It would be critical to know if there have been any wiring changes in the house recently. – FreeMan Sep 08 '22 at 15:59

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Looks like of the 3 wires coming in, 2 are used for the clock/oven control display. Having one wire out may give the appearance the oven was "turning on" but the elements inside weren't getting red. Or a dryer that spins but doesn't get warm.

I opened up the back of the range after disconnecting it, and saw that where the cord screws in (back bottom), one of the connections had become charred and broken. Cleaning up the connection and screwing it in again real tight everything works again. Right wire here: oven back bottom

https://m.youtube.com/shorts/1k0asu9-ALo

So in this particular oven the ranges are all analog, no control board just straight connection to the infinite switches from power, so you can test for connectivity from the plug through the system. Might be worth double checking that the plug is providing correct voltage as well.

rogerdpack
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    Well there's no such thing as a one-wire circuit, and the 220 appliances are partly or fully line-to-line load, meaning either hot wire would cause it to fail in the same way. The neutral connection is usually for the clock and any other 110 components. – Robert Chapin Sep 08 '22 at 04:13
  • Yep, I stand corrected, answer updated – rogerdpack Sep 08 '22 at 16:49
  • 3 wires is a dangerous configuration for either dryer or range. In 1966 when they required grounding for everything else, they allowed range and dryer chassis to simply be bonded to neutral. If the center neutral wire gives out, it will energize the chassis of the machine! This was banned in 1996 due to the body count. We recommend you change to 4-wire connection ASAP. The 4th wire is proper ground. The chassis should be un-bonded from neutral per instructions. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Sep 08 '22 at 20:52
  • Appears it supports 4 or 3 wires, I'll definitely rewire it if I ever get the guts to convert my outlet to 4 prong :) – rogerdpack Sep 08 '22 at 22:45
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    It appears one of the lines coming in is open. with a burner and the oven on, If you put a voltmeter across the two outside lines you should get 220V. If not check each to the center, you will probably get 120V on each. If so turn off your main breaker then back on. If you have fuses probably one of them is blown. If cycling the breaker does not solve it you need to measure the voltage at the breaker, it should be 220. If not and you are not qualified get an electrician. – Gil Sep 08 '22 at 23:51
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    @rogerdpack You should promptly update to a 4-wire connection as a matter of life-and-death. You have just had *exactly* the kind of failure that kills people (if it happens on the neutral instead of one of the hots). – nobody Sep 09 '22 at 00:33