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We’re planning a kitchen redo, and we’d like to have the lights on the range hood be controlled by the same wall switch that controls the under cabinet lights. We want a standard 36” stainless steel hood, brand/model not selected yet. Is this possible? If so, is there something we should look for in the spec sheet as we shop for hoods to make this possible?

Thanks!

Ian Crew
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    All residential range hoods I've seen have a switch for the lights built in to the hood. Anything like that is likely *not* designed to be switched separately. As opposed to bathroom exhaust light/fans where they usually are switched with regular switches. So you need to look for a hood where the lights are *not* switched with a switch built in to the hood. – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact Jul 04 '22 at 20:40
  • I use timed motion activated under counter lights – Ruskes Jul 04 '22 at 21:42
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    Have you looked at hoods designed to be built into cabinetry? – ThreePhaseEel Jul 04 '22 at 21:55
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    I've done something similar by putting 12V strip underneath the existing range hood (nicely!) and simply not using the internal lamps. Or are you looking to modify the new rangehood's original lights so that the dedicated front panel switch doesn't work and it takes power in the back to the lights, same as your undercabinet lights? You should definitely check with your electrician too. – Criggie Jul 06 '22 at 10:53
  • Thanks @Criggie. Yes, the hope was to find a hood that would allow me to control its built-in lights with the wall switch, not with the front panel. But it seems like that's not really an option that's on the market at the moment (I don't want to mess with voiding warranties and such), so your LED strip idea is a good one. – Ian Crew Jul 06 '22 at 14:32

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I thought about this when doing my kitchen as well but I was unable to find any hood fan where this was possible without modifying the hood fan (which would be against code). On the surface the request seems reasonable but there are reasons why this would be a bad idea.

The light temperature and intensity from your hood fan are likely to be quite different from your under cabinet lighting and sometimes you just want the under cabinet lights to provide some ambiance.

An alternate plan is to build a cabinet like valence that blends with your cabinetry and pushes your hood fan out by 1" from the wall. This valence can then continue your under cabinet lighting assuming you are using led strip lighting.

If you actually want it to work as you have requested, another idea might be to find under cabinet lights that will work as replacements to the ones in your fan hood and then design some cabinetry that will work with your hood fan and can integrate these lights. You can then wire them together with the switched cabinet lights.

Be interested to see what you come up with.

Fresh Codemonger
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I've actually done this very thing by going remote control mode for all the kitchen lights and linking them to the same switch. In my specific case the integrated light in the hood came with a separate plug, so I could use a remote controlled plug in between:

enter image description here

This particular setup has operated flawlessly for probably five years now (I did wrap the RC plug in a plastic bag to eliminate grease build up, this has worked as intended though). However, hoods tend to have a lot of excess internal space, so it should also easily be possible to use a (small) built in version of that switch:

enter image description here

I've applied this particular type of switch to control the integrated light of a ceiling fan unit, so a hood light should work too.

These can then be linked to either (or both) a hand held RC, or a wall mounted one that you can literally stick anywhere (I have switches in several places linked to this kitchen group):

enter image description here

As available systems probably vary greatly per country and part of the world I can't (/want to) do specific suggestions, however I'm sure you'll be able to find equivalent products.

MiG
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  • Good idea -- but a plastic bag inside a range hood is probably a fire hazard. – A. I. Breveleri Jul 05 '22 at 14:44
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    Ah--yes, that's exactly what I was hoping might be the case, that the lights in the hood would be on a separate plug from the fan, allowing me to plug them into a switched outlet. As we'll be opening up the walls, we could easily put in a switched outlet, no need for remote controls or plastic bags. But how did you find a hood that had that separate-plug-for-the-lights feature? If you're willing to mention a manufacturer, that might at least help me start my search. (And thanks for the helpful reply!) – Ian Crew Jul 05 '22 at 15:21
  • @A.I.Breveleri the socket and plastic bag were above the hood, well away from any heat sources. If open flames (or even simple radiative heat) would reach that, there would be a significant fire already. – MiG Jul 05 '22 at 21:01
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    @IanCrew I'm renting, this was the unit that was present. I suspect I have a separate plug because the hood does not provide active suction (which in my home happens centrally), so the light was the only thing that needed powering. Cfr the warranty comment in the other post, I'm not sure about warranty issues in your area / with your manufacturers, but the hood I have can simply be taken apart with screws. You can easily reverse the process and remove the RC unit again. This particular one does not require soldering, just plugging wires. – MiG Jul 05 '22 at 21:02
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    It's a Bosch DHU622PEU. Again, note that this unit relies on a central fan to provide suction, it's more akin to a big vacuum cleaner head in that sense, so probably not suitable for your needs. – MiG Jul 05 '22 at 21:09
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I agree with others that state that hoods normally have their own switches.

It is easy to adjust the wiring to power the hood lights from the same circuit as the kitchen lights, the fanciest hood I have done the owner wanted a “mood light” around the rim, I used sealed rope light and 2 reflector lamps for cooking both were controlled with the fan on a wall switch (the couple did not want to hassle with a step stool to turn the hood on.

I have done a few it takes time to rewire and that is where the real cost is but it can be a DIY job also.

Ed Beal
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Think different

This does not answer your desire, but it is easier to do.

Most hoods have a row of push button switches for fan and light.

On the inside they are not individual, but mounted on a PCB. You either have to solder your wires, or cut the hod lights and splice them.

Rater then messing with range-hood, feeding a wire to the outsides (probably breaking the code in proces), then feed it to the light switch..

Consider using a motion switch for the under-cabinet lights..

There are many choices with different options.

Ruskes
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    You could do your suggestion within code as long as any splices are in boxes and the wires are protected in conduit while inside the hood. – Ed Beal Jul 04 '22 at 22:13
  • @EdBeal thank you for your advice, so how to bring the wire outside the box, go into the wall and connect to the switch . Conduit ? That would hardwire the exhaust to the wall. – Ruskes Jul 04 '22 at 22:33
  • @knowitall, I'd guess that since the wall switch is supposed to power both the hood light and cabinet lights, the post-switch cabinet light power cable could come into the hood electrical box along with the normal hood power cable, same as one might bring two cables to a ceiling fan. Switched power to the light, constant power to the hood fan. – Triplefault Jul 04 '22 at 23:18
  • @Triplefault I did not see that the wall switch will switch the hood from OP. That would be unusual. – Ruskes Jul 05 '22 at 00:11
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    Messing with the new cooker hood will inevitably invalidate any guarantee. That could be a future problem lying in wait. – Tim Jul 05 '22 at 08:18
  • Thanks @Tim, that was my thought too. I was hoping that what I want to do was a supported option of some hoods on the market. I definitely don't want to be messing with internal wiring and voiding warranties. I'm starting to think the best option will be to go with a separate LED strip affixed where the hood meets the wall, as some other commenters have suggested. – Ian Crew Jul 06 '22 at 14:38