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I'm replacing on old bathroom ceiling fan/light, and the conduit comes to it from the left side, with only a short length of wires sticking out - but the hole into which the conduit wires should go is on the the other side of the fan box (which can't change as that's where the vent line is).

Here’s a picture showing the space and wires from the conduit. The hole meant for conduit would be on far right of screen - conduit wires won’t reach it, but what I meant before was that the fan’s attached wires stick out far enough that they could connect to the conduit externally.

enter image description here

The install manual/video says to run the conduit/wires into the fan box and then connect inside it, but since that doesn't seem possible as is, would I be better off to (a) just connect them outside of the box, with wire nuts, tape over, etc. (there's no insulation in that ceiling space, as it's between floors), or (b) get some extra pieces of wire and extend each of the wires coming out of the conduit (with wire nuts, tape over) to make them long enough to reach into the fan box, and then connect them to the fan wires inside the box as intended? Or, some other approach? Thanks!

isherwood
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JRDinIL
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    1) NEVER (in the US) connect wires outside of an approved junction box - it's a good way for fires to start! 2) Please [edit] your question to include pictures so people can see exactly what's going on. If you do have conduit, this could be a very easy fix. I say "in the US" because it's a code violation, however, it applies elsewhere in the world, but it may not be a code violation everywhere and/or code may not be particularly rigorously enforced. – FreeMan Jun 07 '22 at 18:10
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    Check the fan box over. Quite a few will have more than just one knock out hole to bring wires into it from different directions. – crip659 Jun 07 '22 at 18:41
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    Also look for slack in the run. That flex conduit may have a framing clamp that can be removed. – isherwood Jun 07 '22 at 18:54
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    I'm curious about the wiring. Why are there four wires but none of them is green or bare? Did the old fan have three separate functions (eg, Fan, Light, Heater) ? I think that flex can be used as ground but only if it's a short tail, which would mean there is another *actual* junction box not far from this hole. I *think* if it goes all the way to the wall switch it's supposed to have a ground wire inside, which it apparently doesn't. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable can correct/comment on this. – jay613 Jun 07 '22 at 19:47
  • at the end all you want is to extend the wire to reach fan enclosure on the other side. So just extend the wires. Explained in detail in my answer. – Ruskes Jun 07 '22 at 21:32

3 Answers3

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There are two primary strategies available. Which is best depends on the nuances of the situation.

  • Extend the conduit and pull new longer wires from the closest upstream junction box.
  • Add a junction box at the end of the conduit and extend with additional conduit and new wires from that box.

Note that any junction box must remain accessible, but this can include attic space with an access port.

isherwood
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    If the space is not accessible via an attic, the hidden junction box is *exactly* as accessible as the integral one in the new fan. The fan's box door can only be accessed by removing the fan, at which time the "hidden" additional junction box is there to behold. I'm no code expert, or even novice, but isn't that good enough? – jay613 Jun 07 '22 at 19:42
  • That's not true. Any fan I've worked with had interior access. – isherwood Jun 07 '22 at 19:46
  • Oh, now I have to climb up and look inside the one I just installed, from the outside, to see if there WAS access to the junction box from the inside. I don't remember seeing it .... but I wasn't looking for it. – jay613 Jun 07 '22 at 19:57
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What you have there is Flexible Metal Conduit, which terminates in a standard round knockout hole for 1/2" trade size pipe. (the hole being 7/8" diameter). In fact you can see a standard knockout on the side facing us in the photo. Now you see why it's called a "knockout".

You're saying "where is this knockout hole? I see an L-shaped metal plate."

The L-shaped plate is a "door", it is part of your old fan. It's provided as a convenience for assembly and replacement. Your new fan may have a door similar to it. I've seen installations where the door was identical (same manufacturer?) which worked out nicely for the installer lol.

If your new fan does not have that exact door, you will need to loosen the "conduit nut" from the old door. (it's not in view in the picture, but it's there.)

enter image description here

These things are meant to be turned by putting a flat screwdriver onto one of the "tangs" around the outside, and then bap the end of the screwdriver with the side of your pliers or a small mallet. However if you can get square-on to it with a pliers that should work too. They are not usually overly tight.

Harper - Reinstate Monica
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Normally you would just use a nut to extend the wire. But if the space in the box is limited and nut would interfere with fan housing use the alternative methods.

enter image description here

Crimp Wire Terminals

Choose the right gauge (judging from those wires on the picture it is 14) and get the right crimp tool.

Ruskes
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  • @manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact You are wrong: read this https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/179571/37594 – Ruskes Jun 07 '22 at 20:36
  • @manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact "Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices identified for the use or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible metal or alloy. Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and then be soldered. All splices and joints and the free ends of conductors shall be covered with an insulation equivalent to that of the conductors or with an insulating device identified for the purpose." – Ruskes Jun 07 '22 at 21:08
  • @manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact that is rather a personal question and not welcome here. The code says it is allowed, so just admit you were wrong. Done it many times where the space in the junction box is limited. – Ruskes Jun 07 '22 at 21:18
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    If the junction box is so short of space that the usual (in the US) wire nuts can't fit, it is actually very likely to be an undersized box, which I have found is quite common. And the proper solution then is to replace with a larger box. But if you want to take the time to work on soldering a connection instead of just twisting on a wire nut, have fun. (And I have soldered plenty of low voltage electronics - a lot easier on a workbench than in a junction box in the ceiling...) – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact Jun 07 '22 at 21:34
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    While soldering is allowed, a well done solder joint usually takes practice, not really something I would want to try for the first time overhead(ow hot, hot), when simple safe easy connectors are available. – crip659 Jun 07 '22 at 22:08
  • @crip659 agree, I forgot I have a lots of practice with soldering others might not. That is why I edited my answer. – Ruskes Jun 07 '22 at 22:10
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    Sidenote on crimping: for a critical application like mains wiring, you really want to be using a ratchet-type crimp tool with the correct die instead of crimp pliers – ThreePhaseEel Jun 08 '22 at 04:26