*tion, dances more or less graceful. Conspicuous among

these dusky and insistent beggars is the self-styled King of the Gypsies who, with a stagy dignity, accosts the traveler, informs him of his rank and state, sells him his portrait for two pesetas, and offers to pose before a kodak for a dollar. Courageous is the stranger who refuses to pay tribute to this picturesque old monarch. But the sight of him is worth whatever it may cost; his brigand face and raiment, his lordly and commanding air, speak to us of the romantic past,—he is in harmony with his surroundings.

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THE KING OF THE GRANADA GYPSIES Photograph by Harlow D. Higinbotham

And now the guides appear to press their services upon us, having with unerring judgment recognized new-comers. Guides, as a rule, I heartily abhor; they rob you of delightful first impressions; they lead you blindfold along a beaten path, force you to look upon the wonders of the world through their spectacles of ennui; they make the traveler a slave. Not so with Juan de Lara, the handsome youth who