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On a job, I had to switch out all old plugs and light switches on a modular home for an update. I installed all new remodel boxes as well.

Bathroom 1's GFCI reads 34 volts and nothing at the light switch.

The kitchen wall, with a total of 4 GFCI and 2 switches are dead. However, when tested to the hot and neutral wire, I get 120v but nothing when I plug into that outlet.

I’m so confused any ideas would be appreciated.

FreeMan
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Kenny Romaine
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  • I would suggest that you pick one circuit to start on, then provide clear, focused pics of the panel and the wiring at every junction box along the way. Show the wiring connected to the device & the wires leading into the box so we can see which cable is which. Someone may spot something that's cross-wired or otherwise messed up. Without that, we're left speculating and guessing, and that's not helpful to you. – FreeMan Dec 10 '20 at 13:28
  • Also, I cleaned up the wording a bit, please feel free to [edit] some more if I've miss-stated something. – FreeMan Dec 10 '20 at 13:30
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    Yikes, provide pictures of your work. If the outlets worked before you touched them then it is clearly something you did to make things not work. – MonkeyZeus Dec 10 '20 at 13:55
  • See [this about updating outlets and switches](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/168564/first-time-changing-switches-and-outlets-receptacles-anything-special-i-shoul). – Harper - Reinstate Monica Dec 10 '20 at 17:08

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Given little to work from - you replaced a bunch of stuff and you have either no or low voltage, or full voltage but "nothing when you plug in" - it all sounds like:

Poor Connections.

Might be all of them, might just be one bad one per circuit, but loose conections will cause all those problems. Where you have 120V but nothing works when plugged in, the 120V (at no current) is getting carried by barely connected wires, but they are so barely connected that trying to draw current makes the voltage at the outlet vanish, as it's all busy trying to heat up the bad connection.

You don't mention your methods of work - if you used backstabs, don't. Use the side clamp screws. If you used wirenuts, they need to be twisted a lot harder than most inexperienced people will do, and you need to check that none of the wires are loose after you twist them. Be sure that you don't have poorly stripped insulation between the wire and the screw/clamp.

If you changed wires at the breakers, you actually need a torque driver to make those connections properly to code.

Ecnerwal
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  • I agree with the wirenut part of the answer as the others are common failures. wires are supposed to create 2 full twists when tightened for most brands. This is not 2 twists of the nut this is “twist the nut until the wires wrap around each other 2x”. The wires need to be even when inserted. the husband had added a receptacle for Christmas lights there were only 2 lighting circuits in the entire house so when 1/2 dozen inside lights were turned on with a nice sized outside load the bad connection opened and darkness. Very expensive after hours call tell the electricians of changes you made! – Ed Beal Dec 11 '20 at 16:41
  • I just needed to add to the comment. Electricians for the most part do not care if you did something as long as it meets code. The home owners did not tell me about the new circuit I had to first figure out which one it was then back track it to the new box and wire a 300.00 call would have been half as much if I knew about the new circuit, they did not want tell me about it so I would think it was original but the NMB was not only colored but the date was only 6-7 months old (wire has the mfg name, date and size/type printed on it) I told them I did not care but charged full price FYI. – Ed Beal Dec 11 '20 at 16:52