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wood subfloor in bathroom

I have a small 5 x 11 bathroom in 1961 coop/condo, wood subfloor (pictured) is not level. We don’t think water damage just building settling. This is a gut job, all fixtures being replaced. Would it make sense to use purlins then 3/4 plywood to level floor, then place new tub on new plywood? Or backer board & tile entire floor and put tub on top of tile?

Can’t put tub on joists or current subfloor as uneven. Can’t use self leveling compound as depth of pitch too deep (1/2 an inch or more).

Joe
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  • You are putting a roof under your tub?! – virtualxtc Mar 21 '18 at 16:41
  • I don’t understand your joke. The subfloor is not level. I have to level floor. Purlins are thin triangular shims used to level floors (among other things). My question is logistics of using these shims under a bathtub. Can’t use self leveling compound. Picture of subfloor to clarify it is composed of planks with gaps. – Joe Mar 21 '18 at 16:52
  • No, they aren't: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Purlin – virtualxtc Mar 21 '18 at 17:39
  • Since you're ignorant of this topic, here's some links to help you. See below. However...since you know nothing about this...maybe you shouldn't be attempting to answer the question? https://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/rooms-and-spaces/floors/how-to-level-a-floor https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/4232/how-do-i-use-surface-shims-to-level-out-a-sloping-floor – Joe Mar 21 '18 at 20:17
  • If you read your references you'd realize that a perlin is a specific type of framing member - like a 'stud' or 'floor plate' that doesn't describe the cut / style of wood. According to your references you probably mean 'leveling strips'. – virtualxtc Mar 21 '18 at 20:58
  • You should take up this argument with the multiple other posters who use this term? In addition I offered other definitions and links. Seems you’re using this topic to play games, rather than adress the question? From your other posts I can see you’re not knowledgeable, have no idea what you’re doing here? – Joe Mar 21 '18 at 21:45
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    @virtualxtc Joe, take a deep breath. Virtualxtc is correct. Purlins are structural members not something to be used for leveling floors. You’re thinking of “leveling shims” as opposed to “framing shims”. Even the Code defines purlins, See ICC R802.5.1.: “Framing members to reduce joists spans.” You are looking for a non-structural member to lay on your existing floor. BTW, both your examples call for leveling shims, not pulins. – Lee Sam Mar 21 '18 at 22:56
  • “Take a deep breath”? I’ve provided links to topics using this terminology. I have offered multiple other terms and links to topics to explain the nature of question. Yet this has devolved into pointless quibbling over the use of a term. So much for this site...no one here knows... – Joe Mar 22 '18 at 01:17
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    There is the presumption that question posters on this site might be novices, or they would not need to ask. Terminology is often incorrect (and also differs according to region). It is not hard to correct it and preserve the OP's dignity at the same time; it is also important for OP to gracefully accept corrections. Take it easy guys. – Jimmy Fix-it Mar 22 '18 at 01:29
  • If it's a "gut job", I'd remove the existing subfloor and level the joists using the techniques described in [this answer](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/134528/ideal-approach-to-level-a-6x8-ft-bathroom/134535#134535). Like Jimmy says, installing backerboard and tile doesn't solve your issue. You'll need to level the framing one way or another. – isherwood Mar 22 '18 at 02:02
  • it seems to just be a duplicate of many other questions that have already been asked. Rather than marking it a duplicate I was attempting to figure out if there was something actually unique about it, but sadly, the OP doesn't seem to have the comprehension skills (or perhaps the civility?) needed to have a meaningful discussion. – virtualxtc Mar 22 '18 at 11:07

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Assuming your plan is to level the entire floor area, I feel that using tapered shims with the 3/4" ply would be the best of the options presented. You will have to deal with the extra floor height. I just don't like extending tile under the tub.

Anyhoo, if you were to level backerboard you would need leveled plywood under it anyway, for support, no?

Jimmy Fix-it
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  • Thanks to Jimmy-Fix-It for his knowledgeable reply; the only difference in my query is whether this approach to leveling is appropriate in a bathroom. The contractor I spoke to wants to do a mud bed which would probably be easier (to shim would have to scribe shape of floor which would be difficult on an old uneven floor). – Joe Mar 24 '18 at 20:21
  • Virtualxtc nothing you said was helpful, nor did you refer to other topics, and quoting Wikipedia to complain about a term, while making no helpful comment on the issue at hand, doesn’t make you look smart. If you don’t know, you don’t know - no shame, just get off the topic if you have nothing to add. – Joe Mar 24 '18 at 20:29
  • I’m on the 3rd floor of coop building - there’s no way for me (or contractor) to get beneath subfloor. Downstairs neighbor would not let us in to destroy her bathroom ceiling. If a tile bed, am assuming a waterproof layer (?? Roofing felt??) then wire mesh then concrete. (I wouldn’t attempt this, am trying to see if I can level floor myself). That’s why I ask about shims... – Joe Mar 24 '18 at 20:39
  • @Joe, if you want to level it without shims and all that, you could "dry pack" it. It's not hard, you could do it yourself. Staple roofing felt (no mesh needed) then use a long level to create level bridges of "dry pack" (moist, not wet, mixture of sand and portland cement), with wet redwood strips on top. Fill the areas between the bridges by packing mixture in with a wood trowel and screeding level from redwood strip to redwood strip. It's a time-tested technique for leveling floors as a prep for tile, and it's hard to describe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6GGwSY8oj4 – Jimmy Fix-it Mar 24 '18 at 22:04
  • This will be easier for you than the shim option, I didn't mention it in my answer because your question seemed to ask which of the presented options would be better. There's a lot of info on the web about dry-pack floors. In a wet area like a shower there would be significant additional considerations. – Jimmy Fix-it Mar 24 '18 at 22:07